Wednesday, February 8, 2012

The Rose in Perfumery

As a consequence of its rich, suave, haunting fragrance, the Rose is one of the most used flowers by the perfumers, the main types being:
- Rosa centifolia, harvested mainly in France, Italy, Egypt, Morocco
- Rosa damascena, being extensively cultivated in Bulgaria (Kazanlik Valley) and Turkey (Isparta region).
In perfumery, this flower is used in almost every creation, from soliflore to chypre and oriental fragrances, and yet the monotony never appears, because of the magical art of the perfumer... In nature, all roses have their own scent, as they have their own inner soul. As well, the floral harmony created by the perfumers gains infinite possibilities... So, the Rose can be sparkling, light, damask, heavy, green, honey-like, spicy, powdery, dark etc.
Here are some wonderful creations, built around the Rose:
  • Paris - Yves Saint Laurent (type floral rose-violette), rose from North Africa, violets, mimosa, rose hips.
  • Baby Doll - Yves Saint Laurent (floral-fruity), wild rose, freesia, lily-of-the-valley, heliotrope, gooseberry, grapefruit, rhubarb.
  • Joy - Jean Patou (floral-jasmin), considered to be the most expensive rose perfume, with May rose and Grasse jasmin, ylang-ylang and tuberose.
  • Diva - Ungaro (chypre-floral), roses from Turcia, tuberose, ylang-ylang, iris.
  • Nahema - Guerlain (oriental-floral), Damask roses, peach, cyclamen, lily.
  • Tresor - Lancome (floral rose-violette), roses, violets, iris, heliotrope.
  • Eternity - Calvin Klein (floral-spicy), roses, violets, lily-of-the-valley, carnations.
  • Rose Absolue - Annick Goutal (floral rose-violette), a bouquet of six different roses: May rose, Bulgarian rose, from Turkey, Damask, Egypt and Morocco.
  • Lumiere - Rochas (floral rose-violette), Damask rose, honeysuckle, a little vanilla sugar, apricot, heliotrope and iris.
  • Desnuda - Ungaro (oriental-floral), chinese rose, cyclamen, iris, freesia, jasmin.
  • Rykiel Rose - Sonia Rykiel (floral-fruity), Bulgarian and Turkish rose, cardamom, lychee, peony, hawthorn, lotus, freesia.
  • Sa Majesté la Rose Sa Majeste La Rose - Serge Lutens (floral-green), Damask rose from Dades Valley in Maroc, camomile, lychee, vanilla absolute.
  • Daliflor - Salvador Dali (floral rose-violette), white rose, Turkish rose, santal.
  • Aqua Allegoria Rosa Magnifica - Guerlain (floral rose-violette), delicate rose ,Florentine iris, hyacinth, violets.
  • Initial - Boucheron (oriental-spicy), Turkish rose, jasmin absolute, patchouli.
  • Sentiment - Escada (floral rose-violette), hyacinth, iris, peach, a predominant note of powdery rose.
  • Hot Couture - Givenchy (oriental-floral), raspberry, rose, magnolia, black pepper, vetyver.
  • Idylle - Guerlain (chypre-floral), Bulgarian rose, peony, lilac, jasmin, lily-of-the-valley.
  • Very Irresistible - Givenchy (floral-fruity), a perfume built with four types of rose (rose centifolia, pivoine, passion and fantasia) and spiced with anise and verbena leaves. It has been reinterpreted several times (Sensual, with vanilla and Liv Tyler rose),Rosa Damascena 2008, Rose Centifolia du Maroc 2009, Eau d'Eteetc.
  • Rose Essentielle - Bulgari (floral rose-violette), rose Ottomane, rose Prelude, immortelle, blackberry, violets, jasmin.
  • L'Heure Bleue - Guerlain (oriental-floral), rose, tuberose, gillyflower, Neroli.

  • Black XS pour elle - Paco Rabanne (floral-fructat), rose Hellebore, black violet, cacao flower, black vanilla.
  • Dolce Vita - Dior (oriental-wood), rosewood, magnolia, lily, cinnamon, vanilla, peach, cardamom.
These are only a few from the multitude of precious perfumes in which you can sense, more suavely or more pregnantly, the olfactory signature of the Rose.
I invite you to (re)discover them and to share your feelings about them or others that you prefer.

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